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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.